When it comes to the unique American institution of brunch, I’m a firm believer in “less is more!” Forget those vast spreads of muddled flavors and soggy textures, those vulgar displays of 40 or 50 dishes, which people try to cram on their plates and later regret having eaten. Instead, serve just three or four wonderful items and focus on the joys of good friends, quiet conversation and lazy weekend mornings!

Usually, brunch guests aren’t on a time schedule, so it’s the perfect time to relax, to be outdoors if the weather permits and to experiment with some imaginative menu items instead of the same old hot cakes and sausage links.

For this Sunday brunch for eight friends, I baked a batch of my favorite buttery raisin muffins. Try to time the baking of the muffins so that their tantalizing aroma will greet guests as they arrive. I don’t think there’s anything more nurturing than baked goods straight from the oven - even if it’s prepared with a mix of some sort! Freshly squeezed juices are another much-appreciated wake-up call. A bit of fresh ginger adds zip to this blend of pineapple, pear and apple juices. If you don’t have the equipment to squeeze your own, buy several good fresh squeezed juices and blend them together with fresh ginger.

Guests helped themselves to a tropical fruit salad made with oranges, papaya, strawberries, blueberries and raspberries, kiwi, grapefruit and a subtle tarragon syrup. The herb’s beguiling anise flavor brought out the best in the fruits; sprigs of fresh mint added a refreshing note and vivid color.

Frittatas, Italy’s homey answer to the sophisticated omelet, were also featured on the buffet. Because the ingredients are mixed in with the eggs (instead of being folded inside), a frittata is easier than an omelet to prepare and serve to large groups.

If your friends love to stand around the kitchen watching you cook, you can make the frittata just before sitting down. If you’d rather unwind with your guests in front of the fireplace or out on the patio, make it in advance and serve it at room temperature the way the Italians do.

I made the accompanying salmon cakes with fish left over from the previous evening’s dinner. However, you can poach a few pieces of salmon if you feel ambitious or, if push comes to shove, use canned salmon. Fried tomatoes and onions, also prepared ahead of time, are savory accompaniments.

Of course, no brunch is complete without good coffee. If you have an espresso machine, offer cappuccino or whipped cream-topped caffe mocha. If not, brew a pot of the best, freshly ground coffee you can find.

In keeping with the quiet, cozy nature of the event, I set our table with simple white linen placemats and napkins and centered them with cacti in terra cotta pots. To inject a blast of color, we used mismatched Mediterranean-style china. Whenever possible, serve weekend brunch outdoors; we all spend entirely too much time indoors during the work week. Even if you live in an apartment, you can have brunch on a patio or balcony and enjoy fresh air along with good coffee, great food and close friends.

Menu

Fresh Pear and Ginger Juice
Raisin Muffins
Fruit Salad with Tarragon Syrup
Asparagus and Basil Frittata
Salmon Cakes
Fried Tomatoes and Onions